MKS Enterprises
MKS Enterprises, Inc "Backyard Boilers" Evaporators Equipment Supplies Used Equipment Forestry Equipment
Maple Syrup Maple Candy and Cream - Instructions and Supplies Recipes
MKS Enterprises,  60 Porter Lynch Rd,  Norwood, NY 13668 -  Phone: 315 353 2808  - Fax: 315 353 4645   - Email MKS

"Backyard Boilers" Maple Syrup Evaporators for the Hobbyist

Make your own Maple Syrup

Late Winter and early Spring is maple season. If you have access to a few maple trees you can produce your own maple syrup and even enough extra to use as gifts for family or friends. Basic Instructions and supply list at the end of the page

kettle over open fire

Kettle Syrup
A traditional family method of boiling sap over an open fire produces what is known as Kettle Syrup. Sap is boiled in a large metal container hung over the fire while fresh sap is continually added until the desired volume of finished syrup is made, usually after many hours of boiling. Kettle syrup is much darker with a very strong flavor.

We can put together everything you need to start making your own syrup.
Evaporator, fire bricks, stove pipe, gloves, filters, containers, thermometer, syrup hydrometer and testing cup.
We'll be glad to help you with advise and tips, the only thing we'll leave to you is getting the fire wood.

Basic syrup making information is provided below the Evaporator displays or add one of these books to your Library:
Backyard Sugarin'
Backyard Sugarin'
  • $16.50 includes shipping in the continental US
  • This book has an over arching philosophy - keep it simple and keep it cheap! The authors describe everything you need to know and stress not having to pay for anything you can get for free. Well written descriptions of all the processes with lots of photos.
  Maple Syrup Producers Manual

Maple Syrup Producers Manual
  • $40. includes shipping in the continental US
  • All the detailed information you will ever need

Backyard Starter Kits
Starter Kit
Our backyard starter kit includes:
  • Backyard Sugarin'
  • 6 Spouts
  • Tubing
  • Candy Thermometer
  • Square Filter

price includes shipping in the continental US
Backyard Sugarin' will start you off by giving you the information you will need. 6 taps and plenty of tubing will allow you to use a variety of containers running from old milk jugs to food quality 5 gallon plastic buckets to collect your sap. The candy thermometer will allow you to bring the sap to the correct stage for syrup. While you may find cheap substitutes to use for filtering, the fitter included in the kit does a much better job and can be washed and reused.
Starter Kit without filter - $43.95
price includes shipping in the continental US
Starter Kit - Expansion Pack
6 spouts, 29 ft tubing
$17.95 - shipping included
Backyard Supply Kit
  • 1 - 24 x 30 sap filter
  • 1 - 24 x 30 syrup filter
  • 1 - 24 x 30 syrup prefilter
  • 1 - pair gray firing gloves
  • 1 - pair rubber gloves
  • 1 - defoamer
  • 1 - hydrometer
  • 1 - hydrometer cup
  • 1 - taylor thermometer
  • 1 - how to book
cost- $130.00
includes shipping in the continental US

Canning - Boiling Unit - $368.95

Set includes a 32,000 BTU propane burner and a 64 qt. pot with cover, thermometer and faucet.

Canning - Boiling Set

Canning unit
Use this set to heat syrup to the proper bottling temperature.

Backyard Boiler
A good unit for a handful of taps making a more efficient "Kettle" set up. You will need to keep adding fresh sap as the level of boiling sap goes down. Boiling with propane is good for small amounts of sap and really only recommended if you are going to produce less than a gallon of syrup at a time.

Pot and Burner Set - $368.95

... includes shipping

Individual item prices

Propane Burner - $139.95

...includes shipping

32 qt. Stainless Steel pot - $229.

with cover, thermometer and faucet.
  • 64 Qt. - $229.
    ...includes shipping

LEADER - Half Pint HOBBY Evaporator       Leader  
- Half Pint Evaporator - $1370.

The Half Pint will take you out of the "Colonial Period" and into the "Modern Age".
Finished syrup is drawn off the "finishing section" as more sap is continually "dribbled" into the first pan section.
The small evaporator pan won't make you a bulk producer but the quality of the syrup made will be much lighter than the Kettle method.

This evaporator is capable of producing a gallon of syrup per day.
Average boiling day: 8 - 10 hours
Average number of taps needed for a full days boiling - 25
Average sap yield: over 1 gallon per tap, per day

A rule of thumb is 1/3 gallon of syrup per tap/season. An average sap season is about six weeks
Syrup must be packed at 180 F and at a minimum of 66 Brix to avoid spoilage.

Ideal for the backyard Sugar Maker with 15 to 50 taps, this dandy little unit has been redesigned and improved to make operation easier and more efficient.

The evaporator pan is made of stainless steel and divided into three sections. A reservoir pan allows for manually feeding preheated sap into the evaporator pan while maintaining boil.
Pan: Flat bottom 2 x 3 ft.
Preheater pan: 2 ft. x 8 in. fits over evaporator pan

The redesigned arch: 2 x 3 ft.
made from galvanized sheet metal with cast iron door and steel legs. The new draft control and grate system allow for faster, hotter fires. A steel collar is attached to the back of the arch to accommodate a standard 6 inch smoke stack (not included).

The arch is designed to be bricked using standard 1/2 and full firebricks
(not included - 42 full and 62 half bricks).

      LEADER - Half Pint HOBBY Evaporator
Leader Half Pint Evaporator

Flat Pan - $1370.

Comes with easy to follow instructions.
shipped standard UPS
Price includes shipping in the continental US
Leader Half Pint Evaporator

Supreme Pan - $1560

Comes with easy to follow instructions.

Shipped standard UPS

Call for shipping cost

... depending upon location shipping cost may add up to $200 to the overall price.
Half Pint
Accessory Kit - $166. DELIVERED
  • 8 ft x 6" galv stove pipe
  • 6" galv elbow
  • 2 draw off faucets
  • one pair firing gloves
  • Cornell Univ DVD - "Maple Production for the Beginner"

Leader has improved and expanded the Half Pint model to now include a optional extension to the original arch and a more efficient flued pan.
Another add on accessory is a BTU Booster consisting of a 120 volt blower that attaches to the air intake door.

The Half Pint Supreme Pan - $875

... call for shipping

6 micro flues added to the middle section of the pan greatly increases the evaporation rate compared to the standard flat pan. The evaporation rate will go from 4 - 6 gallons per hour to 7 - 9 with the increased surface area of the supreme pan.

The supreme pan can replace the original Half Pint flat pan or expand the original arch using the new extension to add the Supreme pan to the basic model.

The flues are shallow making them easy to clean

  half pint supreme pan

Half Pint arch extension kit - $185

... call for shipping


  The arch extension kit can be purchased with the flat bottom boiling pan or the new Supreme flued pan. Extending the original arch with the kit using the Supreme pan will increse evaporation rate by 65%.

BTU Booster - $290

... call for shipping cost

An easily installed accessory that increases evaporation rate. The 120 volt blower increses turbulance in the fire box with a massive amount of air to increase heating temperatures.

   BTU Booster

Hobby Maple Syrup Production
Excerps taken from:
Ohio State University Fact Sheet
School of Natural Resources 2021 Coffey Road, Columbus, Ohio 43210
Hobby Maple Syrup Production
Randall B. Heiligmann

Late Winter and early Spring is maple season. If you have access to a few maple trees, whether growing in your yard or in a woodland, you can produce your own maple syrup and even enough extra to use as gifts for family or friends. It's easy, great fun and a very educational family activity. Sap to produce maple syrup can be collected from any native species of maple, but sugar maples are the first choice.
Making maple syrup from sap requires boiling off water until the desired sugar concentration is achieved. Sugar and black maple usually have considerably higher sap sugar contents than red and silver maple, resulting in less sap needed and less time and energy required to produce a given volume of syrup. Good syrup can be made from red or silver maple, but it is more likely to be cloudy. Tapping season is also likely to be shorter when tapping red or silver maple because both species tend to break bud at an earlier date than sugar maple. Once the trees begin to break bud, chemical changes within the sap cause syrup to have an unpleasant flavor. Maple syrup is rarely made from the sap of boxelder trees (they belong to the maple genus) because the sugar content of the sap is extremely low and the syrup produced is generally of low quality.

Equipment Needed

Maple syrup can be produced on a small scale with very little equipment, but there are some standard items required to do the job correctly. You may already have many of these items or can buy them at a local store. Others, such as metal collecting spouts (called spiles), collecting buckets or bags and finishing filters, are unique to maple production. Equipment you will need to properly produce maple syrup includes:
  • A drill or carpenter's brace with a sharp 7/16-inch bit.
  • A metal collecting spout (spile) for each taphole.
  • A collecting container for each taphole. Buckets should be covered with a lid to prevent rainwater from diluting the sap and to keep out debris. A capped plastic milk or juice gallon jug is an acceptable desposable collecting container. Clean the jug thoroughly, making sure it is free of any food residue. Punch a hole in the side to hang it on the spile. If you modify other containers for sap collection, be certain that they have never contained any harmful substances such as pesticides or engine oil products.
  • Some type of storage tank, bucket, or other container in which to store sap before boiling. This container is not absolutely necessary in a small hobby operation. However, a storage container allows you to collect more sap, particularly during periods of large sap flow.
  • A large pan and a heat source for boiling down the sap. The size of the pan and the heat source will depend on the amount of sap to be processed. If possible, boiling should be done outside the house, or some method should be available to vent the steam outside the house. Steam given off during boiling carries small amounts of sap and syrup that can make surfaces very sticky.
  • A thermometer calibrated to at least the nearest degree with a readable scale in the range of 200 F to at least 230 F. Some candy thermometers are satisfactory.
  • Wool, orlon, or other type filter for filtering the finished syrup while it is hot. Use only filter material that is intended for use in food processing. Do not try to use paper coffee filters; the pores are too small.
  • Containers for the finished syrup. Containers are available from maple equipment vendors or canning jars may be used. Containers must provide an air-tight seal and tolerate a hot filling and sealing at a temperature of at least 185 F.

Tapping the Trees

Some sap flow may occur any time during the dormant season, after a maple loses its leaves, when cool nighttime temperatures (below freezing) are followed by days when there is a rapid warming above freezing (ideally, to about 40oF). Tapping for maple sap, however, is generally done only in the spring when the weather is more predictable and the sap sugar content is high.
Some producers tap by the calendar, routinely tapping each year on or before a certain date such as the second or third week of February. Others, particularly those with a relatively small number of taps who collect with buckets or bags, watch the weather. When suitable weather is predicted, they tap. Sap flow from a tapped tree will not occur every day throughout the tapping season, but only when conditions are right.
Sap can be collected for syrup production until just before tree buds begin to expand, usually sometime in late March or early April, depending on the weather. Sap collected and processed into syrup after bud expansion begins results in "buddy" syrup, which has a distinctly unpleasant flavor. Trees should be at least 10 to 12 inches in diameter (measured 4.5 feet above ground level) before they are tapped. The number of tapholes a tree can support depends on its diameter and its health and vigor. Traditional tapping guidelines for healthy, vigorously growing trees with no major trunk defects (dead areas, scars, etc.) are to use:
    Traditional tapping guidelines
  • one tap for trees 10-15 inches in diameter
  • two taps for trees 16-20 inches in diameter
  • three taps for trees 21-25 inches in diameter
  • four taps for trees larger than 25 inches in diameter
(tree diameter = tree circumference divided by 3.14).
These should be considered maximum tapping rates and should be reduced for trees that are in less than excellent condition or have trunk defects. In recent years many syrup producers have gone to a more conservative tapping guideline:
    conservative tapping guideline
  • one tap in trees 10-18 inches in diameter
  • two taps in trees 19-25 inches in diameter
  • three taps in trees larger than 25 inches
This conservative tapping level is particularly recommended for trees that have been subjected to severe stresses in recent years from such factors as insect defoliation, drought, etc. Reducing the number of taps does not result in a proportional reduction in sap collected because with fewer taps the sap yield per taphole generally increases substantially.

Taps can be located anywhere on the tree trunk but for convenience they are generally located between two and four feet above the ground.

  • are made by drilling a 7/16-inch diameter hole 2-1/2 to 3 inches deep into the trunk.
  • Slant the hole slightly upward to allow sap to run out and prevent sap from collecting in the hole, freezing, and cracking the tree.
  • On trees with more than one taphole, space tapholes evenly around the tree when possible.
  • Do not tap within 24 inches directly above or below an old taphole, locate new tapholes at least six inches to the side and four inches above the height of the old tapholes.
Tapholes should be made only into sound healthy, light-colored sapwood. Decayed or discolored wood should not be tapped, and tapholes should not extend into the darker heartwood. Tapholes in healthy trees should heal in one or two years.
A collecting spout or spile is then inserted into the taphole and tapped lightly to seat it in the taphole. Spiles usually have a tapered shoulder that forms a watertight (saptight) seal so that sap does not leak. Do not seat spiles with too much force, or the wood above and below the taphole may split. Also, do not seat spiles when the trees are frozen, or the wood may split. When sap begins to flow, buckets or bags are hung on the spiles to collect the sap. Be sure that both buckets and bags are clean and free of debris. Both buckets and bags are generally hung on the spile by means of a hole in their side. If buckets are used, be sure they have a lid to keep out rainwater and other debris.

Collecting the Sap

Because sap flow depends on weather, it is not always consistent. Some days no sap will flow; other days, as much as a quart to a gallon of sap may flow during a flow period (several hours to a day or more). During the season, an average tap will produce 6 to 10 gallons of sap. To produce high-quality syrup, sap should be collected as quickly as possible. It is best to collect sap the day it runs and process it immediately into syrup. The longer sap is left in buckets or bags the more likely it is to spoil, particularly during warm weather. During periods of cold temperature, sap can often be stored for a couple of days under the proper storage conditions without seriously reducing the quality of syrup it will produce. However, such storage is usually not recommended or necessary for hobbyists. Usually, the season will provide enough sap in timely runs to make all the syrup you desire and have time to produce. Although not absolutely necessary, it is often desirable to filter sap through a cloth filter (e.g., several layers of cheesecloth) before it is boiled. This filtering removes any debris, such as twigs or pieces of leaves or bark, which might have fallen into the sap.

Making Syrup from Sap

Sap is made into syrup by boiling off water, which increases the sugar content to 66 percent and causes chemical changes that darken the syrup and provide its characteristic taste. The amount of sap required to produce a gallon of syrup depends on the sugar content of the sap. Sap averages about two percent sugar content, requiring 43 gallons of sap to produce a gallon of finished syrup. If the sap sugar content is higher (it varies from tree to tree, with weather, and other factors) less sap will be needed to make a gallon of syrup; if lower, more sap will be required.
Most large commercial producers use a continuous feed evaporation process to make syrup. An evaporation pan is designed so that sap is added to the pan at one end and syrup is removed at the other in a continuous process. Most hobbyist use a batch (kettle) approach, in which sap is placed in a pan and heated. More sap is added as water evaporates until a suitable amount of concentrated sap is present. The evaporation process is then continued with no additional sap and the entire batch is finished to the desired density. To batch-process syrup, a large pan, such as a roaster (teflon coated pans are ideal), is needed. The pan should be at least 6 inches and preferably 8 inches deep to prevent foaming over. Obviously, the larger the pan the more water evaporated in a given time.
With a good, constant heat source, flat bottomed pans will generally evaporate about two gallons of water for each square foot of liquid surface. A 12 inch square or 14 inch in diameter circular pan both have one square foot of liquid surface. Remember, 43 gallons of sap are required to produce one gallon of syrup - 42 gallons of water must be evaporated. This would require about 21 hours of continuous boiling (and sap refilling) if a pan with one square foot of liquid surface were used. By comparison, a gallon of syrup can be produced in about 7 hours using a rectangular 24" x 18" pan (3 square feet of liquid surface). Obviously, the larger the pan the more quickly the evaporation process will be completed. Do not fill the pan completely, as boiling sap usually rolls and foams. Remember to boil outside the house or at least vent the steam outside. Bring the sap to a boil. If foaming occurs, skim the foam off and discard. Maple producers use a defoamer to reduce the amount of foaming. Defoamers are not, however, commonly used when batch processing small amounts of sap. If foaming over is a problem, the common solution is to use a deeper container. If needed, commercial defoamers are available from maple equipment suppliers or a flavorless vegetable oil may be used. Use the defoamer sparingly (a small drop at a time) as excessive amounts may give the syrup an off-flavor. Continually replace the sap as evaporation occurs. To avoid burning or scorching, monitor the heat carefully (don't let the heat get too high), and keep at least 1-1/2 inches of liquid in the pan. The risk of scorching increases as the density of the liquid increases.

Finishing Syrup

The higher the sugar concentration in a sugar solution, the higher the temperature at which the solution boils. As you evaporate water from sap you will discover that the temperature of the boiling liquid is increasing. Finished syrup boils at 7.1 ° F above the boiling temperature of water. When you decide to finish your syrup, stop adding sap and continue the evaporation process until the liquid is boiling at a temperature 7.1 ° F above that of boiling water. Monitor the heat very carefully as "finish point" is approached so that you do not scorch the syrup or go beyond the desired density. Be sure the thermometer bulb is not touching the side of the pan, or it will not read correctly. Finishing syrup at the correct temperature is critical to producing quality syrup that stores well. Be sure the temperature reaches the finish point. If you go beyond the finish temperature to more than 7.5 F above the temperature of boiling water, add a little more sap and bring the syrup to the correct finish point.
Since the boiling point of water varies with location (elevation) and weather (pressure systems), you should determine the boiling point of water when you are making syrup. This is easily done by placing your thermometer in a pan of vigorously boiling water.
Again, be sure the thermometer bulb does not touch the pan side. Once the syrup has reached the desired boiling temperature, it is ready for filtering and packaging. Filter hot syrup through clean wool or orlon syrup filters to remove sugar sand and other suspended solids. After filtering, syrup that is to be used immediately can be cooled and refrigerated. The rest of the syrup should be packaged hot in tightly sealed, clean, air-tight containers. For safe storage, syrup temperature for packaging should be at least 185°F. After filling and sealing the containers, immediately invert them for a short time to flood the container neck and lid bottom with hot syrup.